The Art Inspiring Beauty of the Winterslows and beyond
- Elaine Perkins
- May 18
- 5 min read
I have to admit that up until now I have rather overlooked the series of settlements that make up West, East and Middle Winterslow. The villages are so close to Bentley Wood that I have often times decided to go there instead. However, this has been a definite mistake for not only do the villages ooze with incredible archaeological interest, such as Roman Roads and Bronze Age barrows, they also have such beauty in the landscape that they have attracted and inspired artists old and new. Of course, we cannot forget that alongside all this they were once home to Wiltshire’s most famous witch, Lydia Shears.
My desire to visit the villages changed after reading Nick Cowen’s books on the diaries of Henry Chalk where he talks about the painter and essayist William Hazlitt. Indeed one of Hazlitt’s books is entitled “Winterslow”. I was also drawn to the location after meeting a young local artist, Tom, who paints and sculpts the most wonderful dragons, he too writes books. I thought that I really must visit and see the area for myself and I was in for a treat.
We parked our car at the recreational ground in Middle Winterslow near the school. Thankfully it was quiet on the morning of our visit as the Easter Holidays were in full swing, otherwise I would definitely avoid the school drop off and pick up times.
From the car park we walked diagonally across the playing field towards a kissing gate which we went through onto a footpath that seemed to be marked as the Clarendon Way although this doesn’t seem to be the case on the OS map. Nevertheless, the footpath was in good condition and the route towards West Winterslow clearly visible. As we walked, we saw yellow hammers and other birds seemingly enjoying the early morning sun. Equally as bright as the yellowhammers was the imposing large yellow house that could be seen on the crest of the hill in the distance. I imagined that it was possible that William Hazlitt walked this route to All Saints Church at West Winterslow and it wasn’t long before we too stood outside this building with its pretty and neat graveyard with lovely views. Sadly the church was not open when we visited, so we returned to the footpath noticing what appeared to be a barrow in the garden of the big yellow house and a hint of the ancient inhabitants of the area.
Taking the footpath to the left, we continued along a ridge. Here wonderful views opened up before us and we could understand the inspiration that this area must give artists old and new. I even imagined that this could be an area where Tom’s dragons could soar in the air.
As we walked, again signs of the past were evident as the Roman road that runs between Old Sarum and Winchester is still clearly visible from this location. We continued on and into a sunny copse with majestic beech trees.
At the end of this copse we turned right and headed up a steep hill towards an area called Cobhill Barrow. The barrow or barrow complex is believed to date back to the Bronze Age, but sadly we could not see any sign of the earthworks. However, we had now joined the aforementioned Roman road and the Monarch’s Way. We continued on the straight road past an avenue of imposing previously coppiced trees, and Middleton Manor. Its name no doubt referring to the previous name for Middle Winterslow.
We headed along the road and a short way into the village before taking a path to the left that took us once again into open fields. The path here was very dry and cracked with many areas unusually for the time of year devoid of mud. A welcome relief for the walker, but equally a concern as climate change seems to be lurching us from flood to drought in equal succession with severe consequences associated with both. Happily, it has now rained since we did this walk, but not in sufficient quantities.
We continued on and after ignoring a route off to our right we came to a crossroads with a deeply sunken byway. No doubt an ancient route, the road to the left leading towards tumuli before being stopped abruptly by the perimeter fence of Porton Down. The road to the right leading back into Middle Winterslow but we crossed this path and continued on an ill defined path following pylons until we reached a paddock with two horses. As we walked one of the horses followed us and seemed a little lonely or sad. I made a comment to that effect and of course Mr P. remarked that it did have a bit of a long face and so we exited the field and continued along the road in silence. We were now at East Winterslow and on the road up to Roche Court. The road was fairly quiet, and we happily walked along, listening to the many song birds. This route took us past the buildings of Roche Old Court which seem to be being renovated and on to the gate of Roche Court Arts Centre and sculpture park. Sadly we were too early to enter, but we were able to see some of the sculptures placed in the backdrop of the glorious Wiltshire countryside. Sad that we were too early we vowed to return and visit the arts centre soon. The area is truly an inspirational place for artists, in fact it seems that nature itself was conforming to the perfect form as a nearby log appeared to have leaves, moss and candle snuff fungi all placed so perfectly upon it that I felt some artistic intervention had to have happened.
Moving on from Roche Court, we retraced our steps back to the paddock with the horses, but this time we continued on the road a little way before turning right and then left onto the holloway we had crossed earlier. We then turned right onto the Roman road and headed back into Middle Winterslow. Finally, we took a footpath off to the left past some open ground before re-emerging onto a road near the postoffice and pub. This was the area where William Hazlitt’s wife had a cottage. Sadly the cottage no longer exists and neither it seems is there a trace of Lydia Shears. As it happened we were also too early for the pub so we decided on an ice cream before heading the short distance back to the car.
We really enjoyed this walk with its history and inspirational views. No doubt a wonderful place to create art as William Hazlitt and Tom and those at Roche Court do.
If you wish to know more about Tom's art then he can be found at the Unity Art Studio, Andover. https://unityartstudio.co.uk/ .You may also be able to find his book, etc. at local trade shops such as Wiltshire Makers in Salsibury.
The website for Roche Court New Art Centre is https://www.sculpture.uk.com/
As I no longer live in Wiltshire, I love to read about it and see art inspired by the area. I love that you write about artists associated with the areas you walk. I’m currently reading a classic - V S Naipal’s ‘The Enigma of Arrival’ - set in the 1970s Woodford Valley - highly recommended. He talks of his walks to Stonehenge and I was put in mind of doing The Stones Way walk between Old Sarum and Avebury around 2012. I was disappointed to see that the Woodford to Stonehenge leg if the walk I did has been totally changed to suit the land owners no doubt. Have you done this walk?
Great post, thank you.
How long was the walk, approximately?