Lacock and The Wilts & Berks Canal
This is a blog that’s been 17 months in the making. I first discovered the Wilts & Berks Canal completely by accident in September 2020. I’d taken my son’s car for a service near Pewsham and decided to take a walk whilst I waited. I looked at my OS Map app to see what was nearby and noticed the legend “Old Canal” and "Pewsham Locks (disused)" around half a mile away along a footpath that started very close to the garage. This immediately grabbed my attention and wearing inappropriate footwear I struck out across the muddy fields. What followed was a fascinating couple of hours which I wrote about in a post in the Hidden Wiltshire Facebook Group on 2nd September 2020.
On this initial walk I discovered a hive of activity. Several volunteers working for the Wilts & Berks Canal Trust were involved in restoration work around Pewsham Locks. I had a long chat with one of them, Dave Maloney, who explained a little of the history of the canal. As I wrote at the time the locks form part of the disused Wilts & Berks Canal which runs for 52 miles between Abingdon and the Kennet and Avon Canal at Semington. It was completed in 1810 to mainly carry coal but the canal was abandoned in 1914. The canal is now being restored and they’re doing the entire length! At Pewsham they are restoring three locks and the lock keeper’s cottage. They’re already doing boat trips on the short stretch that has been restored to the south. One of the locks here is in pretty poor shape as the army used it for demolition practice in the Second World War. I wondered whether it would be possible to put together a circular walk in the area that would take in this length of the canal. Dave explained that he had already sketched out an idea for a walk which he subsequently emailed to me. It’s taken me a long time to refine it!
Scroll forward to February 2022. Glyn and I are big fans of the music and writing of Andrew Rumsey, the Bishop of Ramsbury. Andrew publishes short YouTube videos most days and one day recently he mentioned that he had been walking with a fellow clergy member who was local to Chippenham who took him to see the canal. Andrew admitted to never having heard of it. The cat was out of the bag so I decided I needed to get on and do the walk whilst the canal was still relatively hidden!
On a rainy Friday morning my regular walking buddy Stu and I got in his car for the drive to Lacock. Once again the prospect for the weather was not looking great. One of us is jinxing it and I’m not sure who! However, by the time we got to Lacock the rain had stopped and the sun had broken through to provide us with azure skies dotted with white fluffy clouds. If it hadn’t been for the biting wind it could have been a summer’s day. I’m not a great fan of Lacock but as a member of the National Trust the prospect of free parking at a convenient point on the walk could not be ignored.
My issue with Lacock is that it’s become something of a theme park. There’s no doubting that many of the buildings in this medieval village are beautiful but over the many years I’ve known it the place has become so commercial. There are advertising signs everywhere. We counted eight around the George Inn alone.
And the streets seemed buried under parked cars. I know the residents have to park somewhere and I guess if there were no cars the village would appear even more of a theme park. I suppose I want my cake and to eat it! Nevertheless, because it was still early, there were few people around so we explored the village and took advantage of the deserted streets under blue skies to take a few photographs.
As a photographer I wanted to pay homage to William Henry Fox-Talbot who is buried at St Cyriac’s Church. He is claimed by many to be the inventor of photography, although the French would beg to differ due to Louis Daguerre's invention of the daguerreotype in early January 1839. The churchyard of the 14th century St Cyriac’s is a fascinating place with many very old and grand tombs signifying the wealth of the wider area but we failed to find Fox-Talbot’s grave, although we did find several calling cards left by dog walkers (honestly why would you leave that in a church yard)?
We didn’t spend a lot of time in Lacock. Let’s face it, it’s hardly hidden. We were keen to reach the main objective of the day – the far less well-known canal. From the church we headed down the narrow lane called Nethercote to the ford and crossed the ancient packhorse bridge over Bide (or Byde) Brook and then across the meadows towards the hamlet of Reybridge.
Here we came to another old bridge that crosses the more substantial River Avon. It seems the rather inconsequential looking lane carried by the bridge was once an important trading route between London and the cities of Bristol and Bath, and that the nearby Cuckoo Bush Farm may have been a drover’s inn.
Once across the bridge we struck diagonally left across the meadow towards Ray Mill. We were getting closer to our goal. Now as far as I can tell Ray Mill is famous for one thing. As an avid reader of Hello! magazine (I’m not, I’m really not) Ray Mill House was bought by Camilla Parker-Bowles after her divorce in 1994. According to the magazine she bought it because it’s only a 15 minute drive from Highgrove House, the home of Prince Charles. Now either Camilla had a very fast car or the person who wrote the article needs to get out of London more! Either way Camilla apparently still keeps the house “as a base”. The footpath we were on took us round two sides of the estate which was hidden behind some fearsome looking fences, barbed wire and bristling with security cameras. Not sure whether they’re designed to keep someone in or us out but it all seemed a bit excessive if the house is largely unoccupied. Not that you can see anything other than the odd chimney. Seems such a waste when so many people struggle to put a roof over their head or food on the table.
Anyway, after crossing more very boggy fields we soon came to the start (or the end) of what can currently be seen of the canal, marked as under construction on the OS Map. This is as far as the Canal Trust has reached with their restoration work. An interpretation board headed Pewsham to Lacock welcomes you to the tow path with a flavour of what you will find on your journey along this section to Pewsham Locks. This really is a most beautiful, peaceful spot. As we ambled along the path we were accompanied by the plentiful waterfowl in the rushes and reads.
As the canal becomes clearer and navigable, to the left the River Avon twists its way ever closer to the embankment along which the canal travels. A bench provided the perfect place for a